It was the first time me and my brother Christiano Berto ” The Craftsman ” were working together on a project ;

a new line designed by him.
As always, time was short and I had only a chance to make a prototype for each model: it is normal for me being a pattern maker , but this was the first time in 25 years when I had to interpret the drawings of my brother …

The first prototypes were good for the designer so we proceeded to the shrinkage tests and some small changes of details.

this is the first proto

another proto

The shrinkage tests were quite surprising … the cavarlry ready for dyeing fell x-20 y -8, the rest of approximately x -13 y-8 …

fabric shrink measurements

different shrink after dye measures x-20 y -8

At this point, The Tailor had to invent something …

a quick meal …

mission control

I decided to adapt the patterns to these declines with exceptional attention to arm holes and wide neck, as it was not possible  to apply the whole retreat since it is too dangerous for the final fit which had to comply the shape of a tailoring jacket .
So I decided to apply a different percentage depending on the area and re-fit all the pieces; the final result had to be some perfect jackets that would go directly to the Pitti in Florence .

As I said before there was not  time to do a test or prototype, and so I had to decide to proceed directly with the placements, depending on the fabric, colors and withdrawal … at the end they were more than 60 …

lots of placements

lots of placements

After sending the files I started the tour to follow the work progress : cutting factory, laboratories, dyeing and pressing until the arrival in Florence.

final measurements

Button positions

After the first measurements I realized that all the calculations were correct at 90% so after a slight straightening 1ST-PAT-RN were ready for Pitti Uomo 82.

 

Pitti uomo 82 1ST-PAT-RN at TOUCH !

Pitti uomo 82 1ST-PAT-RN at TOUCH !

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