Born in Bialystok (Poland) in 1980, he has been living in Milan since the beginning of 2011.

Photographer with an eclectic personality, Kuba’s work ranges from a reportage in Afghanistan, to fashion shoots and the portraits of celebrities, especially those from his native country, Poland.

Besides being a photographer, he also writes articles about photography for specialized Polish magazines and has published a book entitled “Western”.

click here to see Kuba Dabrowski blog 

Oltre ad un Cavalry leggermente più leggero che ha stimolato Alessio a fare dei piccoli accorgimenti al volume delle giacche , questa stagione  1ST PAT-RN presenterà 3 modelli nuovi da uomo e anche 2 giacche da donna .

La produzione FW 2013 è già in taglio …

BERTO BROTHERS 1975

Service Modellistico The Tailor Pattern Support

Lo studio modellistico The Tailor di Alessio Berto è stato scelto dal comune di Schio nel contesto del festival Città impresa 2013 ( Archiviv vivi) .

Domenica 12 maggio The Tailor ha aperto eccezionalmente il suo ufficio esponendo e descrivendo il suo archivio di capi ” usati ” che di solito usa per ricerca personale di dettagli, vestibilità e soluzioni modellistiche .

L’archivio comprende tra gli altri capi militari degli anni 50 e 60 , giacche civili sartoriali francesi degli anni 60 , denim jackets cimosate della Roy Rogers , Wrangler , repliche di Levi’s 501 del 1942 e 1955 , camicie militari e bluse da sommergibilista inglese .

La filosofia di Alessio Berto è nota in quanto ha sempre sostenuto che i capi ” usati ” ora chiamati “vintage” hanno un prestigio notevole essendo stati costruiti sartorialmente , anche quando si trattava di capi da lavoro o militari .

La produzione pur  industriale di questi capi era caratterizzata da  una lavorazione dettata e guidata dall’esperienza e un controllo “umano” di sarti , modellisti, industrializzatori e confezioniste di livello eccelso .

Oggi sempre di più si necessita di un ritrno a questo tipo di ” cultura ” umana e di lavorazioni .

Questa la filosofia di The Tailor Pattern Support .

1ST-PAT-RN

This winter collection as tradition is also inspired by military clothes into a sartorial twist , the focus is on 1st world war ARDITI north italian soldiers  and British Naval Blazer .

PROTOTYPES

As always the style came from Cristiano and Silvia , the PATTERNS  / production from me .

BROTHERHOOD

This year 1STPAT-RN was selected by Angelo Flaccavento for a special feature called Vestirsi da uomo , 10 brands chosen for a special and innovative men outfit .

VESTIRSI DA UOMO

THE CORNER

Click the links to see some interesting articles on 1ST-PAT-RN

UNTITLEDV

MENSREVERIE

MEOUTFIT

GQITALIA

PITTIIMMAGINE

THE CORNER

and finally I link you to a song that was the soundtrack of this Pitti week !

The music is a kind of retro 60′s and 70′s orchestral music selected from The Tailor Jazzmotel vinyl  library  and includes :

Ennio Morricone , Ed Lincoln , Alan Hawkshaw , Dee Felice Trio , Vince Guaraldi Trio , Frank Sinatra , Paul Bonneau et son Orchestre , Les Baxter , Dorothy Ashby , Henry Mancini almongst others …

This will give a new taste to town for Christmas

Let’s  hope the Street Speakers give the right sound to this music !!!

Records , Clothes , Ideas , Women , Inspirations , Books , Food , Music , Happiness , Beatitude !

One day an old man in San Paulo Brazil told me 3 things ?

1 Walk slow – go safe and far .

2 When you find and learn something , you should  teach it to someone else .

3 Whould you like a Pinga?

Im walking in London in 1993 .

the Giants

Here in my town theres a nice Bar made into a old industrial building , an old wool factory called Lanificio Conte .

This Bar guest some local artists , real artists and give them a window space to “expose” their works .

In occasion of a VINTAGE EXPO in this Conte gallery the Bar called Tweed Cafe asked me to improve the ambient with a VINTAGE CLOTHES thing …as The Tailor Pattern Support .

I was thinking what to do to make the thing in line with vintage expo and the 50′s 60′s industial furnitures and structure of the bar .

I decide to create a Pop Boutique and devide the bar in 2 sides , the art boutique and the vintage clothing boutique .

I create a wall of pretty rare vintage denim jackets from my archive , some LEVI’S , WRANGLER , LEE , LOIS , MAVERICK things , then I add some pics of musicians , actors etc in the 60′s wearing DENIM .

Paul broke a glass …

Wonderwall

"as I walk from Cafe to Bar"

John Lennon , Serge Gainsbourg , Harrison , Neil the Beat , McQuinn and McCartney , BB, all in denim .

On the other side i put my Patchworks 6o’s inspired

hArt

here we have a Pop Boutique !

pop-boutique

Lady Madonna !

Paul is dead? …is the same old soup … the William Campbell's Soup !

Word Up ! Art Up ! Peace Up !

Pattern Cutter

Enter the pattern cutter. In response to industry demand for highly skilled and talented technical expertise, more fashion colleges are offering qualifications in the technical elements of fashion manufacturing, with degrees and postgraduate diplomas in creative pattern cutting leading the way. In the wake of a boom-time for fashion manufacturing in many parts of the world, the industry has begun to look for a new wave of trained and skilled pattern cutters. Their role is to support the designers who may lack the technical skill needed to transform creative vision into actual garment.

It may not be as glamorous as the glossy world of the fashion designer, but pattern cutters are an essential part of the design process. Without their skills, a designer would not be able to turn a sketch or an idea into a wearable piece of clothing. And yet many still don’t quite know what a pattern cutter does. In the media we focus on the idea of designer as personality or even as celebrity – the mould established in the 1990s by the likes of Donatella Versace or Marc Jacobs. However, in their shadow is the pattern cutter, working behind the scenes to make fashion dreams into wearable reality.

While their main function is to follow the directions of the designer in putting together a sample pattern for a machinist to use, what the pattern cutter really does is act as a translator, an intermediary between the often-abstract world of the designer and the concrete processes of fashion manufacturing. So it’s wrong, perhaps, to view their position as entirely separate from that of the designer. There are real overlaps between the two, who ideally should support each other to produce the best possible result.

Stephanie Grace Foy is a pattern cutter who also finds time to design – or maybe that should be the other way around. By day she is a pattern cutter lending her skills to clients like Mark Fast, Topshop Unique and Marios Schwab, while outside office hours she operates under her own name, designing and making a range of dramatically-draped eveningwear. “Good pattern cutters are always in demand,” she told me. “But the job itself is not always easy.” Working with designers and clients who don’t always understand what a pattern cutter does can be difficult, especially considering that the pattern cutter is the closest person working with a head designer. “You are there to close the gap in creating and nurturing what they wish to achieve. It can become very complicated if you don’t have a good working relationship with them.”

So it’s clear that there is still a perceived divide amongst industry insiders between the creative force of head designer and the more technically minded pattern cutter. “There is a major lack of understanding in the fashion industry as to the actual process of pattern making, and even to what skill is involved as a machinist.” Stephanie explained. “Over the years of working for various designers I have found that many will assume you are a magician and can photocopy what’s in their mind. It takes a lot of communication and understanding between the designer and pattern cutter to achieve design specifics.”

For her, the two roles are inseparable, and one informs the other to create an overall strong design dynamic, in her work for clients and for her own line. But Stephanie admits that this isn’t always the case. “In all honesty, I find there is a divide: a lot of workplaces ask you if you either are a pattern cutter or a designer. From my own experience, people expect you to be one or the other. I find this bizarre. They go hand in hand for me. I would not be able to achieve one without the other.”

So while both the universities who train students and the companies who employ graduates see the two as separate, perhaps it is time to consider integrating technical skill with creative imagination to create the best and most employable talent pool. “Pattern cutting is a tool and a skill that I use to develop my design ethos,” said Stephanie, “and there are no barriers. If anything, it is an asset to be able to combine the two skill sets. It’s an important process and they should be worked alongside each other. It is all about problem-solving, not working against each other.”

It’s obviously not the easiest career path, as it requires a lot of training in manual and computerised methods of pattern cutting. And acting as a liaison with often-difficult or even domineering designers can bring its own troubles, particularly when you are working as a freelancer. As in any freelance career, pattern cutting can be unreliable and capricious. “For designers looking to make a living rather than a name for themselves, pattern cutting may be the path to a rewarding and limitless career.

NOT JUST A LABEL